Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Slow braised Rabbit with mint and parsley


A relatively simple dish especially good as an alternative to a Sunday roast. 
Depending on the size of your rabbit, portion wise, one saddle is generally fair for each person. 
For four, simply increase all the ingredients by a similar ratio, although the amount of parsley should only be increased by half. 
Marjoram and Thyme are also great additions to the herb mix for this particular recipe and if using either, I would tend to use 15 grams of parsley to 5 grams of either of these herbs; i.e. still maintaining a 20 gram portion of fresh herbs in total.

For two saddles of Rabbit:
  • Four dessert spoons of good olive oil
  • 10 grams of mint, chopped finely
  • Three large cloves of garlic, chopped finely
  • Two good pinches of salt
  • Two good pinches of caraway seeds
  • 20 grams of flat leaf parsley, chopped roughly
  • Two large onions, sliced
  • 500 mls of good vegetable stock, reduced by half
  • 50 mls of good balsamic vinegar
Place your Rabbit in a large bowl.  Add the oil, mint and garlic, the salt, the caraway seeds and the sliced onions and ensure the meat is evenly covered.

Place to one side, covered, at room temperature for 30-40 minutes or, in a sealable plastic bag in the fridge overnight, taking the bag out about an hour before you need to start cooking.

Pre-heat oven to 160c.

Reduce your stock and allow to cool slightly, then add the balsamic.

In a heavy oven dish, scatter a little more oil in the base and put half your parsley/herb mix onto the bottom.  Place the rabbit and onion mixture and the remaining parsley scattered on around and on top.  Add the liquid to the side rather than pouring over the top of the meat.  Cover tightly with oven foil and place in the in oven, for an hour.

At the end of this period, uncover, increase the heat to 180c and cook for a further 25/35 minutes, depending on the size or the number of rabbit pieces you have placed in your oven dish.

Take out of the oven, cover loosely and allow to stand in its juices for 20 minutes. 

Serve on a bed of Spring greens or puy lentils.

If you are serving with roast potatoes and want a thicker gravy, I would transfer the remaining juices into a saucepan and whisk in a little butter and flour, perhaps adding a little pinch of ground black pepper at the end.

Monday, April 8, 2013

Kitchen diary: Party secrets

Ever invited a dozen people around for drinks and had those sinking feelings just before people are due to arrive?
 
Well, a little under 25 years ago, a certain elderly, ex-Actor was entertaining upwards of ten people at a time in a room no more than twenty feet square in Soho, in the West End of London.
 
Afternoon tea at Eliot's flat was a grand affair, or rather it seemed to be, it wasn't until much later that I was taken aside in confidence (especially as my liking of French and Italian cooking was by then well known to my friends) after a particularly splendid Sunday afternoon. 

There were only nine or ten of us, including the host, but the little flat accommodated everyone with ease, the Edwardian daybed was a perch for two and an intricately carved Persian long, but quite low, stool was topped with cushions for another two.  Chairs in many different styles, although two rather grand Gothic charges stood out like thrones, completed the eclectic seating arrangements.  Small tables and terracotta drums held small bowls and platters with an varied assortment of nibbles, some of the regular nut and crisp variety but there were also some little plates of less expected offerings.

To put this in repast in context, it was the late eighties, probably 1988 or 1989, flat, as I've said before was just a room with a small separate kitchen and bathroom.   The fact that it was just off Charing Cross Road in London's theatre land just made it (for me anyway) that much more boho.

Every 20 or 30 minutes for about 2 hours Eliot came out with two small silver trays with small offerings, some sweet and savoury and others simply savoury.  We were then all, very politely of course, ushered out of the flat for the next event, which normally ended up in a small bar or café owned or managed by one of his friends.

And the secret methodology to all this boho chic? 

"The only "homemade" bits "dear" are the toasted bread, the bean paste, the olive mix and a rather clever trick with potted dates.  I suppose you also need to know your audience and how to set up the smoke and mirrors, that's the easy part.  But ignore anyone who says you have to have even numbers of guests, odd is always more interesting.  We're lucky, you hardly ever meet an untalkative gay man or actor, but do try to have some quieter ones, otherwise you can't hear yourself above all that trilling and showing off."

Small party organisers note:

·        Know your venue and facilities well, in Eliot's case, he knew he couldn't cater for more than ten people and that feeding ten people would be difficult if everything wasn’t done totally in advance.  He had only a small half fridge, so two buckets with ice was used to chill the wine and another two buckets were used with ice to use for cooling trays.

·        Set your scene.  In Eliot's flat, the "smoke and mirrors" simply referred to what's the best use of the room, arranging the furniture so that everyone was facing one another, in a semicircle and with the main source of light at the open end of this arrangement - so no-one is squinting at the person opposite if they are sitting in front of an undressed window.  If you need to layer your seating arrangements place high/hard seated chairs behind much lower ones - the Gothic chargers were placed behind the Persian stool (as so the two people lucky enough to get this seat could easily swivel and chat to those behind them).  

·        Remember to allow for enough surfaces to put glasses and bowls on, hence the array of small tables and terracotta drums in this little Soho flat, there was always somewhere "to put a napkin".  In  the centre of the semi-circle, don't be tempted to fill it by putting a table there for example, after just a few minutes, it will be moved to one side anyway.

·        Food, make it simple and make it ahead of time.  See the mini-recipes below, but also go to non-mainstream food shops, in Soho, in London at the time, Eliot had a number of choices, including Chinese, Japanese and Jewish food shops but also a number of other middle eastern café's just a short bus ride away on the Edgware Road.  Having heavily spiced almonds, hazelnuts or olive mixes are very easily shopped for now but 25 years ago, shopping around for something special took a little more time.  Still if you are still wanting more snack ideas, I've a few ideas of my own.

·        Eliot bought olives and herbs and small jars of peppers and chillies separately and simple made a fresh mix every few days, having an afternoon tea simply meant that he made a large batch.

·        He made his "toast" by griddling thin slices of French bread but he "discovered" an Italian bakery in Farringdon he would go there specially to get ciabatta instead.

·        Know your audience.  Balance your invitations.  Yes, you will always have your extrovert guests, but make sure they don't drown out the ones who also have an opinion.  Remember, it's not just the extrovert who are loud, it’s the nervous ones who've breathed in that first glass of wine too, so know your audience, calm them, reassure them and if they are too quiet, give them something to do so it forces them to interact, perhaps ask them to take around the opened bottle of fizz to top up glasses or distribute a tray of treats and napkins.  They will have the excuse to joke about the service or explain about what's in the food or do some healthy flirting.

Stuffed dates

A simple and tasty, but fiddly, finger full of fun are these stuffed dates.  Remember those boxes of dates you always had at Christmas, well here's a tip on how to use them.  De-stone them (that's the fiddly bit and fill the spaces with some small wedges of a tart cheese - goats cheese, feta or even a little blue cheese too.  Put on a plate with sprinkling of finely chopped parsley, so easy.

Bean paste

My own involves cooking, Eliot's was a lot more straight forward.  A tin of pre-cooked pinto beans, drained with two dessert spoons of olive oil, a teaspoon of cumin and a teaspoon of hot smoked paprika, and mashed well.  The paste was then put on "toasts" and small additions were placed on top, a little ham, or couple of slices of tinned artichoke, or a little griddled chorizo.

Mixed olives

As above, but the possibilities are endless, not everyone likes olives, try making up a mix with small cherry tomatoes and/or with small balls of hard cheese.  I particularly like toasted chorizo chopped in large dice and mixed up with pieces of onion and sweet pepper.