Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Onion sauce

Onion sauce, evokes simplicity and taste but it is not always so straight forward.


The original recipe I used was based on a Graham Kerr recipe (although his called for monosodium glutamate - which I found a little disturbing), I found that by simply cooking the onions over a gentler, but longer heat, soon made up for this artificial enhancer. 

I must admit, I soon abandoned it soon after and the recipes that follow are tried and tested and are amalgamations of many a dinnter party and simple suppers over years.  As you can see the recipe soon evolved.

A basic onion sauce comprises of onions, a little fat to fry the said onions, flour and wine (instead of, or as well as some stock) and the personal addition of seasoning to taste.  Additionally, in the original recipe, Graham included milk, but unless this is an accompaniment for lighter meats, I don't think this necessary.  However, if you do add some, add it instead of an equal quantity of the reduced liquid stated below.

I have two versions of this sauce, one is relatively simple and I tend to use this as a way of revitalising and reheating cold meats.  The second is literally a more refined onion gravy and is made with a rich vegetable or veal stock. 

With the more basic sauce, slice cold cuts of meat and additional thin slices of onion in an oven proof dish.  Layering between these with a small amount of sauce.  Additions to this could be some chopped caper berries (especially good with roast pork or leftover boiled ham) or chopped black olives (good with beef or lamb).

My leaning towards earthy flavours normally includes fresh or dried herbs in both versions, normally dried thyme and parsley for simple version and a full bouquet for the richer set - the latter normally when reducing the stock in readiness to add to the sauce.  Both versions make about 450 to 500 mls, depending upon the strength of your reduction.
 

Basic method

The liquid:

  • 400mls Vegetable stock
  • 400mls good dry white wine
In a pan over a medium heat reduce the liquid by a third to a half and set aside.
  • 25 grams of unsalted butter
  • One large onion, chopped finely
  • 1 small clove of garlic (crushed)
  • 2 pinches of salt
  • 1 level teaspoon of dried parsley and another of dried thyme (or 1 generous table spoon of finely chopped parsley and one of thyme)
  • 2 table spoons of plain flour
  • 300 mls of stock/wine
On a low to medium heat, melt the butter and add the onion.  Slowly cook until the onion is very soft and then add the garlic, salt and herbs.  Keep cooking slowly for another ten minutes or so and then add the flour and stir constantly until the mixture has absorbed it.  Slowly add the reduced stock/wine. Cook for a further 20 minutes, slowly simmering and stirring.  The result should be a silky emulsion that easily covers the back of a spoon.

If you are adding milk to the sauce, reduce the amount of stock by a third and then after simmering for a few minutes add the milk towards the end, bringing back to just below simmering point. 

Second method

 

The liquid:

  • 350 mls vegetable or veal stock
  • 350 mls of good dry white wine
  • 100 mls of dry vermouth
  • 1 bouquet garnet (2 large sprigs each of thyme, rosemary, marjoram and two bay leaves, one teaspoon of black pepper corns).
In a pan over a medium reduce the liquid gradually by approximately half.  Set aside to cool with bouquet remaining.
  • 25 grams of unsalted butter for the beginning of the recipe
  • One large onion, chopped finely
  • 1 small clove of garlic (crushed)
  • 2 pinches of salt
  • 2 tablespoons of plain flour
  • 300 mls of enriched stock
  • 50 mls of dry vermouth
  • 25 grams of softened unsalted butter for the glossing at the end
Use the method as above, adding separately the additional vermouth just a few minutes before the end of the simmering time, continue to stir allow to come to just below simmering point. 

Then, taking the sauce periodically off the heat and using a hand whisk, add small amounts of additional butter and whisk into the mixture.  The result should be much glossier version of the first sauce and is ideal to serve on freshly roasted meats as an alternative to gravy.  Equally as good on both red meat and poultry.  With game, substitute a good quality cognac instead of vermouth. 
 
Again, if adding milk, do so in the final stages, in this case after the vermouth has been added and allowed to cook through for a minimum of 5 minutes before adding the milk gradually.

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